Wrinkle Cream Types
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Hydroxy Acids
Hydroxy acids are derived from fruits. Basically, these products are exfoliants. They remove the upper layer of old and dead skin cells and encourage the growth of new smooth and evenly pigmented younger looking skin. Hydroxy acids stimulate the production of the skin protein collagen leading to thicker healthier skin and better moisture retention. Use of a sunscreen is strongly recommended when using these types of anti-wrinkle creams.
Alpha-hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
Mildly damaged skin can be treated with an anti-aging cream with alpha-hydroxy acids. AHAs can be used to smooth out the skin in people of all ages and seem to be very beneficial on people with rough, sun-damaged skin. AHA creams may also contain a bleaching agent to help with blotchy skin pigmentation and a moisturizer to help fight dry skin. Reduction in pore size has also been noted with the use of this wrinkle cream. For some people, noticeable results may appear after only six weeks of using this wrinkle cream.
Alpha-hydroxy acids can be very irritating to the skin. Reported side effects with the use of this product include temporary irritation of the skin, itching, dryness, thinning of the skin, blistering, swelling around the eye areas, and redness. AHAs are also believed to be a frequent cause of irritation and flushing for individuals suffering with rosacea and should not be used by these individuals.
Glycolic acid, which is derived from fruit products (12% strength) is a commonly used AHA for anti-aging treatment.
Beta-hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
A common beta-hydroxy acid used in anti wrinkle creams is salicylic acid. BHAs are also used in facial cleansers, moisturizers, anti-acne products, and makeup. As an anti-aging product BHAs smooth out the skin and reduce facial pore size, but can irritate the skin. Individuals with rosacea should avoid the use of this product.
Topical Anti-Oxidants
Anti-oxidants are compounds that neutralize skin-damaging free radicals. As skin cells age they begin to produce excess amounts of free radicals. Unfortunately, aging leads to a reduction of naturally occurring anti-oxidants in the skin cells. Therefore, the free radicals are present to damage skin cell membranes, proteins (collagen and elastin), and DNA. The end result is skin that is wrinkled.
Vitamin C
This anti-oxidant helps recycle vitamin E and promotes collagen formation. It also repairs skin cell damage that is usually caused by ultraviolet light and activities such as smoking. A wrinkle cream that contains vitamin C can reduce wrinkles, thicken skin, and provide protection from the suns damaging rays. Some noted side effects are minor skin irritation and stinging.
Vitamin E
Vitamin E is the most significant anti-oxidant found in skin. Without sufficient vitamin E, skin wrinkles become more prevalent. A wrinkle cream with vitamin E acts to neutralize free radicals like other anti-oxidants do and eventually leads to soft and smooth skin and a noticeable reduction in wrinkles, depth of wrinkles, and length of facial lines. The side effects of using vitamin E creams are red and swollen skin and possible contact dermatitis.
In cosmetic products, tocopherols and tocopherol acetate are common forms of vitamin E that may be present.
Alpha-lipoic Acid (ALA)
Alpha-lipoic acid is a naturally occurring anti-oxidant and mild exfoliant that acts to diminish fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots. Its use results in firm and toned skin giving it a smoother appearance.
The advantage of using this substance in a wrinkle lotion or cream is that it penetrates skin cells rather easily for maximum effectiveness. It has a protective effect on vitamins C and E and therefore boosts anti-oxidant activity within the cell. Inflammation is a common side effect of using this product.
Tea Extracts
A variety of teas such as green tea show anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and therefore are commonly found in wrinkle cream products. The main benefit is the repair of sun-damaged skin. Preliminary indications are that green tea may also lead to wrinkle reduction.
Oligomeric Proanthocyanidin (OPCs) Oligomeric proanthocyanidin complexes are produced from grape seeds or pine bark and are powerful anti-oxidants. There are indications that such substances protect and strength collagen and elastin and if so, they would be very useful ingredients in anti-aging or anti wrinkle cream products.
Copper Peptides
Copper peptides (a copper protein complex) have been used for wound healing. They are known to be important in the synthesis of collagen and elastin, which are structural proteins in the skin matrix that degrade with age. Some tests have shown improvement in sun damaged skin, disappearance of fine wrinkles, a decrease in skin pigmentation problems, thickening of the skin, and increase in skin elasticity and hydration with the use of copper peptides. It is suspected that they may enhance the effectiveness of anti-oxidants as well. Copper peptides are non-irritating and few side effects have been noted.
Soy Isoflavones
Soy isoflavones or phytoestrogens are protein extracts from soybean and soymilk. Use of these substances in a wrinkle product may result in the reduction of wrinkles.
Coenzyme Q-10
Coenzyme Q-10 is a nutrient that helps regulate energy production within the skin cells. Preliminary tests have shown that this anti aging product can significantly reduce fine wrinkles and little to no side effects have been noted.
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